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KMID : 0604519970230030108
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
1997 Volume.23 No. 3 p.108 ~ p.114
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Reduction of Skin Irritation by Control of Skin Permeation of Methyl Paraben
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Jeong, Seong-Hoon
Park, Mun-Eok/Kang, She-Hoon/Lee, Cheon-Koo
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Abstract
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The skin permeation study has two meanings in cosmetics. One is how to promote rile skin permeation of active materials (e.g. skin whitening agents, anti-ageing agents) for improving their bioavailabilities and the other is how to decrease it of irritants (e.g. preservatives, perfumes, sunscreen agents) for reducing their skin side effects. In this study, we selected methyl paraben (Mp), one of the preservatives, as a model irritant and tried to reduce rile skin irritation by the decrease of skin penneation. Furthemore, rile relationship between skin permeation and skin primary irritation was discussed.
For in vitro skin penneation experiments, Franz type diffusion cells (effective diffusional area: 1.766 ㎠) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse front 8 weeks old were used. the donor compartment was charged with oil only or O/W emulsion containing 0.3% MP. We selected 19 oils, including esters, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbons, and alcohols, which are broadly used in cosmetics. We derentined the oil/water partition coefficient of MP ar 32+C. The skin primary irritation was evaluated with female guinea pig (8-10 weeks, 350-400 g).
The skin penneability of MP from the oils showed following order:
ester oils > triglycerides > plant oils > hydrocarbons > alcohols
We considered that this result was based on the different effect of each oil on rile barrier function of stratum comeum. In O/W emulsion containing each oil, the skin permeability of Mil decreased as the oil/water partition coefficient of MP increased. The skin primary irritation increased as the skin permeability of MP increased.
In conclusion, we suggest that rite skin irritation could be reduced by the decrease of skin permeability of MP, which may be obtained by the good selection of oils in cosmetic preparations.
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